Esther's Adventure

Hello,

Vikki, Danny and myself head to Rio Gallegos on the bus with the intention of me heading down to Tierra del Fuego, and the guys heading up towards Puerto Madryn. We've been warned by the English boys that Rio Gallegos really is quite dire, and quite rightly so. The Footprint guide informs you that there are 'some interesting trees' around the main square. Hmm interesting. We arrive and its late in the afternoon, we hope we can all catch a connection so we don't have to stay in Rio G. Luckily for V and D there is a bus toward Puerta Madryn that evening. Unluckily for me the bus to Ushuaia is in the morning. It looks like I'm staying the night. We book tickets and head into town for some dinner. South American pizza (a pastry base drowning in cheese). On the way back to the bus station D and V drop me at a hostel. It's a very odd hostel, it's basically a persons house with dorms made out of the bedrooms upstairs. It reminds me of the O'Brians house in Sutton Courtenay where I grew up, there seem to be bunk beds in every available nook and cranny (the O'Brian's used to have bunk beds in their lounge). There are also attractive 70´s style throws on the beds in orange towelling with tassels round the edge, with flowery curtains and a shag pile carpet, it's straight out of the Good Life (Margot would be happy). It's already 10ish so I shower and head to bed. In the morning it's an early start and back to the bus station to catch an 18 hour bus to Ushuaia.

Tierra Del Fuego is vast and the sky is the biggest I´ve ever seen. I sit next to a nice french man in is late 60s heading to Antarctica! It sounds amazing and I decide to do it another time when I have more money try $4000!. We get to the Straights of Magellan and I reminisce about school, geography and Mr Pearce. I see some black and white dolphins swimming alongside the boat on the crossing. Its a long trip I realize how although I love to vastness of everything I'm not sure I could live in a place so remote. It really is the end of the earth.

I reach Ushuaia at about 3am and head to the Antarctica hostel. I get a bed in an 8 person dorm. Its the top bunk and the room is full of sleeping persons. I try to be as quiet as possible. Electric toothbrush will have to wait till morning. I spend the night on the most uncomfortable bed ever, its on a slant and whoever is below me starts snoring very loudly. I wake up feeling really groggy and wanting to murder the person below. When I finally get up, hes already moved out. Thank god. So I baggsy the bottom bunk from him. Ushuaia a pretty town on a slope overlooking the Beagle Channel, right at the end of Argentina. I'm exhausted after my trip and night so spend the day snoozing and reading my book.

The next day I decide that I want to head to Rio asap. Ive had this plan brewing for a week or so now. Ive decided to move to Rio for a month and stay with Thiago, whom I met there with M when we were in Rio in January. I'm going to see if I can do a Portuguese course and basically get to know Rio better. I cant stop thinking about it. I'm in love with Rio and am seriously contemplating moving there. So I decide book my bus to Punta Arenas early, change my flight, so that I can get Santiago and then Rio earlier. Booking the ticket takes three hours! Just as I'm about to get my turn with the travel agent, she goes to lunch!! Eventually I get to see her (I meet some cool people in the travel agents whilst waiting) and I book myself onto the early bus to Punta Arenas.

I spend the afternoon visiting sea lions, cormorants and penguins in the Beagle channel. I meet a 22 year old Mexican girl who's already pilot?! I decide I really need to visit Mexico too, it sounds great. Amazing sun set, cute penguins and smelly sea lions. We go out to a restaurant in the evening for some fuegan lamb. Delicious.

5am on a mini bus to Rio Turbio, all a blur and more vastness. I'm at the end of the world and really on my own. The bus is called Marianne but shes miles away in London and I miss her and everyone massively. The journey to Punta Arenas is silly as you have to go through Argentina, then Chile, then Argentina, then Chile. Every time getting off the bus and having your passport stamped. Punta Arenas is similar to Ushuaia and I head to a hostel recommended by Footprint, 'Hostel at the end of the world'. I book in and am shown to a large room with 4 very comfy looking beds with big eiderdowns. God I'm looking forward to bed. It's a really nice hostel and the people who run it are very accommodating. The next day I try to change my flight, but can't. I'm stuck in PA for four days!!! Bollocks. A very sweet American girl moves in called Jill. We hang out for the next fours days eating, sleeping, reading and watching tons of films on the hostel 40inch flat screen (i miss mine!)...Also I have a cold from trekking in the Torres.

Chilean School kids look like they're Japanese. Its spooky. They're really into Manga cartoons and everything Japanese. Their hair, clothes and they even look Oriental. Wish id gotten a photo. I meet up with Marianne's mums cousin John. He takes me for a delicious dinner to the smartest restaurant in PA. He's the father of lovely Angie and Maty in BA and tells me the fascinating story of how he managed to be living in South America and how he loves it. My heart strings are being pulled the whole while...Rio Rio Rio I'm thinking.
Finally after what seems and eternity at the end of the world, its the night before I fly toward Santiago. Although the landscapes are beautiful and space and clean air freely available, I'm glad to be leaving such a remote place. The romance of Chatwins 'In Patagonia' is in the back of my mind, but I realise how I crave life and people and colour and things!! Dare I say civilization?!

I get the the airport with a Spanish boy who shares my taxi. Once through check in and me taking my leatherman through the xray machine accidentally, I spot the Chilean President right in front of me! Chilean security is rather lax it seems. Finally I'm on the fight to Santiago. We fly up over Chile and along the geographical wall the Andes create separating Chile from the rest of the Continent. I see lakes, huge glaciers and mountains. We circle Santiago before we land and you can see the smog and pollution from the city as we do, it looks massive and dirty. Then its into a cab and straight to Barrio Brazil to see Jess. I met Jess with M in Trancoso two months ago. I arrive at her halls of residence, and It so nice to see her. She's very kindly let me stay in her hall of residence room. After a cup of Tescos Finest builders tea, we go out for afternoon ice cream (mmm), and a wander round a really nice arty area of Santiago. Then some beers and a dinner at a great restaurant. We collapse into Jess' bed around 2am rather worse for wear, but having had a really good laugh. I luv Jess and i look forward to seeing her again in June before I fly to Auckland. Jess has a class in the morning so has to leave early. She makes me yummy porridge with almonds and raisins. I pack up my stuff again and head to the airport. Flying is such a luxury on this trip. I feel very special and very lucky! I'm on my flight to Rio and to see Thiago...I cant wait...

The gringo beards in Patagonia, Mr Twit??
Smokey Antarctica Hostel, I hate smoking
The lost knickers
The Antarctica workers with smelly breath (dire)
The PA cemetery, spooky but beautiful
American Gangster (brilliant)
'Cumming' tube station in Santiago
Rio here I come!

xxxxx

Here goes the proper lonesome blog, no sign of M or our Shenanigans.

So I leave BA on my own, tired but ok and get on a 22 hour bus to Bariloche. It's on the east side of Argentina next to the Andes. I'm starving hungry and assume that like the last bus I got in Argentina, there will be food served. After three hours though there is no sign of any food, so I give up hoping and settle into a desperately needed slumber (seat doesn't recline very much = uncomfy). Ipod, eye mask, neck pillow and jumper, lent from my neighbour. A very pleasant BA lawyer. I'm then nudged (11.30pm) to be told that there is some food being offered. The food is being served in a restaurant we've stopped at. This is very odd. We all file into the restaurant, which is empty except for us. There are long tables all set for us dining hall fashion. There's literally every age and type of person you can imagine. I sit on a table with the lawyer, some Peruvian looking men and a real Gaucho (in jodpur trouser things and long boots), two old ladies (who don't stop talking) and a young couple. Dinner is chicken and rice. Everyone is given a plate. It's not bad, but not good either. Then for desert there is Argentine equivalent of Angel Delight. I head back to the bus and slip into a delicious sleep (a lie of course, I'm on a f*cking bus for 22 hours for Christ's sake, on seats which don't recline, the air cons on max, so its about minus 10 degrees and the lawyer has taken his sweater back!)...

I arrive in Bariloche somewhat walking dead, but ok. I am wowed by the surroundings. It's beautiful, the lake is deep blue and looks like it has diamond encrusted ripples. I'm entranced. It's so bright and the air is so pure. I forget the past 24 hours and feel revived. I've checked into a hostel which is fine, but I quickly decide that don't really like. I'm feeling quite weird being without M and can't gel with anyone...I'm feeling weird, but everyone at the hostel really is weird. I book a days riding on an Argentinian Estancia for the following day and decide to check out at the same time. I actually end up meeting a sweet Canadian girl who sleeps in my dorm that evening, but too late I'm off the next day. In the morning I pack up my stuff and leave it in the reception of the hostel to collect after riding. The riding is great and I feel like John Wayne, and feel a bit like John Wayne for the next few days, Owe! We don't wear hats which feels a bit odd but good because it's so hot (sorry Roma!). There are some Aussie guys on the trek (which is all day with lunch in between). They are hilarious. They arrive in shorts. Then one gets on the horse the wrong side and then the horse starts walking around with the guy trying to look like he's in control. There are also some Aussie girls. One of whom says "are you doing that?, or is the horse taking you for a ride?" " Oz boy pipes up "no I'm doing it!", then he says: "They're pretty tame these horses, ay?" , "What do you mean?", she says, "Well they're really quiet, they're not naying or bucking or anything!". I wish I had a photo of him being 'in control' of the horse, it was fucking funny. So off we trot. The Aussie girls are actually with two Italian boys. I sort of keep myself to myself and just eavesdrop on all the conversations. The Italians really don't speak very good English. But there is some serious flirting going on, on horse back. I really have to try not to laugh my head off. It's painful. I end up hanging with the gaucho. Of course you do Esther! A nice Argentinian gaucho with olive skin who handles a horse like I imagine he would a woman (can I say that? well I just did!) Anyway he has me cantering and galloping all over the estancia, which is exhilarating! We stop for lunch at about 2pm. Parilla is served (basically meat off an open fire barbecue), with salad and potatoes. Delicious! We re-saddle after lunch and some lama petting.

The second hostel is much nicer. The people look normal and are my cup of matte. After a great day out asking people to take photos of me on my own in front of views and things (well two photos). I return to the hostel cook dinner, and meet some really cool Kiwi girls. We all sit at a big table and gas about travelling. The favorite traveller conversation. Two Dutch girls are spilling the beans about Columbia and how fantastic it is. I want to go. The next day I join the Kiwis on their mountain bike tour round the lake. We get up and I head off to book my bus to El Calafate. Then meet back at the hostel to head up to to bike hire place. A fab afternoon cycling round the lakes. It's drop dead beautiful here. Please check out Lao Lao Hotel. We cycle past this and I have to say I'd quite like to be staying there, oh dreams! But how nice to appreciate luxury again. Our hostel is perfect and I actually wouldn't want it any other way... (oh ok just one night!) What am i saying Ive just spent half a week in Brendan's luxury apartment??!

The next day I get the bus to El Calafate which is, wait for it...36 hours!!? On a dirt track road called Routa 40. What am i doing? I mooch about Bariloche and have a chilled lunch, and also find a Lan ticket office. I have decided that Im going back to Rio and need to move flights about. 'm plotting and have a plan up my sleeves. I then head to the bus station and wait for the bus. I spot two English couples who will be on the same bus. We soo get talking, being a bus for that long you cant help it! So we set off at 9pm on the Friday night. Saturday morning I wake up somewhere in Patagonia to a wonderful sunrise. I jump off the bus for a pee and to buy something to eat. Being in Argentina means there are a number of options on the buying of comestibles. Pastry with cheese, pastry with mince meat (empanadas) or crisps or biscuits. Aargh no fruit anywhere to be seen! Only sweetened fruit juice (no fresh) and bread, pastry things. Back on the bus. I have to say it goes quite quickly, I sort of drift in and out of consciousness and listening to ipod or reading means time goes quite quick. Its sunset again in no time, which means just one more night till we arrive in El Calafate. I have two seats to myself which is great...before you know it we arrive.

It's not my intention to follow the two English couples, but I storm off on my lonesome only to meet them further down the road at the cash point. We're all heading to the same place! I'm quite surprised that they're friendly with me because I'm wearing my skinnyish jeans with my walking boots and a north face waterproof. I'm a DORK. I mention this point to Danny a few weeks later and he agrees that he wasnt sure whay they talked to me! We check in and head off for some much needed food and drinks. We can't actually get in the rooms etc till after 2pm. Once fed and watered we head back to the hostel for some personal TLC, ie a shower and clean clothes. Oh the joy of clean things. I meet a very nice German boy in my dorm who takes me to a nature reserve in the afternoon and helps me sort out the trip to the glacier the next day. Accidentally I wear flip flops to walk round a really muddy reserve...I have a looming shoe crisis.

Up at the crack of dawn to visit the Perito Moreno glacier. Incredible. It's like a big blue lemon meringue pie floating on a blue milk lake. The colours are warped. I hope you like the photos. We also do a mini crampon trek on the glacier which is loads of fun. Especially when a french guy who's all kitted out with his own gear (all the gear no idea!) goes off on his own. Is then spotted by our guide and told off so badly that it feels like we're at school. He's marched off and told he has to stay behind the guide at all times. This guy is about 45! What a twat.

We all head out for Parilla in the evening, wine, steak and well that's it actually. We're served by a one eyed waiter in a ill fitting black suite, who looks like he should be from the Sopranos. Vikki, Danny, Paul and Nicki have asked me to join them doing the Torres trek in Chile. They are very cool! We take a bus in the morning to Puerto Natales in Chile. It's raining cats and dogs and the thought of doing a 5 day trek camping isnt really appealing...

Notes/memories:

Vikki's sea sick story (a woman being sick in her diving mask whilst scuba diving!)
Naked sky diving (the guys we met in Rio, one of whom did this professionally)
The mullet/friar tuck look also sported a medallion and black leather slip ones with white socks and shorts.
This blog is getting harder to write by the day, no crack of the whip by M.
The shoe situation. It's walking boots everywhere. I hate them (although they do me proud later...)
It's getting cold and sleeping under duvets again.

xxxxx

Hello,

I haven't updated for ages and am dead behind. So much has happened that I'm worried I will not remember all the details of the last part of the trip...plus it's not the same because I don't have my trusty travel companion. Things just arnt as funny on your own. I MISS MMMMMMMM.

So left off with me taking the bus, and M flying to BA from Iguazu falls in Argentina. It's a practice separation for us, and it goes fine. I set off a day before M because of the time the bus will take, over night. It's my first go on an Argie bus and I like it. Big comfy seats which recline nearly to horizontal, a fluffy pillow and a fleecy blanket which has a foot hood (a little hood your feet slip neatly into). Then there's the hot dinner delivered to you "in flight" fashion and a glass of bubbly to wash it all down. Most civilised and surprisingly tasty too. Almost enough to take the worry out of the dangerous and crazy driving. I'd opted to take the upstairs front seat, so had head on vision of the road and the crazy driving. Very scary. This bus driver was taking no prisoners.
I arrive in BA on Friday the morning. I have met a lovely girl on the bus who helps me get myself sorted at the bus station. I'm feeling good after the white knuckle ride, Im quite alert and decide to walk to the hostel. 20 mins later Ive checked in and am all alone in BA awaiting Ms arrival later in the afternoon. The hostel is downtown and doesn't seem to resemble its pictures on the web?! But it's clean and seems efficient. I get on the Internet and try to get in touch with Brendan, Ben's American friend whom I met at Dans wedding in Pamplona watching the bulls run, last July. I potter about and have a wander round BA. It's a grand city and reminds me very much of Barcelona or Paris. It's much more European that any Brazilian city was. It's really smelly though with dirty cars and fumes. Apparently you don't need an MOT on your car, this is obvious by the rust heaps driving around the city. Proper flat tyres and bumpers scraping the ground and lots of large American gas guzzlers. The buses are really cool though, all fifties style with lots of polished chrome. I have a great day just wandering around, drinking some good coffee and people watching. I find myself a pedicurist on a busy street and make an appointment for half an hour later. I then wander off window shopping and completely loose my bearings, I can't find the place where I made the appointment, shit. I find BA very difficult to navigate round? odd. I run round desperately trying to find where Id made the appointment, just as I'm about to give up I spot the shopping centre. Best pedicure evah! I wont go into details! Back at the hostel M has arrived, and I check the net again. Yay Brendan has got in touch and would love to take us out for dinner, for half a cow. M and I glam it up. Well as far as you can with limited supplies. I'm already bored of my wardrobe. We jump into a cab over to Palermo Chico! = dead posh area. Brendan has a top floor penthouse apartment in one of the tallest buildings in BA. The views are stunning. Brendan is a perfect host and we sip vodka tonics (sorry M has a gin and tonic) and watch a BA sunset. Brendan lives with another male, Mick the cat. Mick is our new best friend and M and I lurve him. We are spoilt rotten and taken to Las Cantitas for dinner, to a restaurant called Campo Brava. Yum Yum Yum. Big fat juicy steaks and homemade chips with garlic, parsley and sea salt. Plus lots of red wine, Argentine Malbec. A really great meal. In fact the best yet. I end up staying out rather later than expected.

Its Saturday eve and we decide PACHA is a must! We drag Brendan there too, who hasn't even ever been. We're causing trouble already. By the way typing in South America is quite hard. None of the keys have the correct symbols on them, so forgive me if there are various punctuation mistakes. Anyway back to Pacha, which is pronounced PA - CHA, ie the ch as a tscha...M is wearing the new play suite from Sao Paolo and I'm in my long skirt. Were looking hot and in the mood to party! We don't let ourselves down! We finally leave the club at around 6ish and head back to the penthouse, bliss. Mick is there waiting to entertain us and loves hiding under my skirt. Although Ive had an accident, someone has trodden on the back of it and it has two holes in it! Most distressing. We watch a magnificent sunrise through the clouds and then decide that we really are beyond our best and should head to bed.

It's Sunday and after exactly 4 hours crap sleep we emerge from the hostel to meet Ms second cousin Angie who lives in BA. M remembers meeting her when they were kids but hasn't seen her since, M remembers that the was lots of jumping around and lights being turned on and off, and being told off a lot. Were sure that nothing much will have changed. We're right, Angie meets us at the hostel and immediately were giggling and chatting. We admit our hideous hangovers and Angie is sympathetic. We go and hang out in San Thelmo. A very bohemian quarter of BA with old colonial buildings, street markets, musicians and tango all taking place on the streets. We get lost and find our way to a square with a great antiques market and a perfect spot for lunch. After a couple of beers M and I feel slightly more human and we spend a nice afternoon chatting with Angie and her boyfriend Jesse. On route home we stop off for some helado from Freddo, oh my god delicious.
Brendan has kindly offered that we can stay with him for our remaining days in BA. We jump at the offer. M and I living in a penthouse in BA, we love it. Our own room, our own bathroom, gigantic fluffy towels, lovely kitchen and apple powerbook with Internet...plus Mick the pussy cat, heaven. We go out for some super other meals and M even decides to cook a culinary masterpiece in Brendan's honour. Were very spoilt. M and I are really rather lazy in BA and apart from going to see Recoletta the beautiful cemetery, we do little sight seeing (oh yeah an art gallery too)... Ill just have to go back.

We leave BA slightly later than expected, which means that the following weekend were still there. Asia de Cuba is visited and I hate it. It's full of men and trashy girls. The ratio is about 5 to 1. I love male attention but not sure about Argentine men. We go and stay with Angie and Jesse in her sweet flat in Cabalito for the weekend, and are very kindly invited out to San Isidro (family home) for a barbeque lunch. We head there and meet Angie's brother Mati, who does a mean bbq and we stuff our faces. It so nice hanging at a big house in the burbs!

Because Marianne's birthday in the following week and we wont be together, we decide we will just have to go back to pacha again to celebrate. Brendan has his girlfriend Chris over from the States. We all meet at Bs and have some delicious sushi and drinks. We then head out, M is on fire and has decided shes blagging the guest list queue. We rock straight up to the front and in her poshest English voice she tells the door girl that we are on Jose's list from Ibiza. There is a dead pan silence, "Jose who?" - "Jose Padilla in Ibiza..." - another stoney silence, but all the while shes looking straight at us...I can feel M breaking, but she holds it together. Then we're just about to fall on our arses and give in, when the the girls smile turns into a "yeah whatever!" grin, and she lets us, well all the girls in! Ha ha! After a great night we return back to Angie's flat.

We're in a state of shock. M's flight leaves at 2pm and I have bus to get. We're splitting up! I'm in denial. I'm in a mess, but we cant stop giggling about the evening! Too funny and M is happy her birthday eve went so well, we look like we've been dug up though and this is the vision I have of M finally leaving me. I say bye and we have a last giggle both SOOOO hungover. I'm glad I don't have to navigate passport control, I do however have a 22 hour bus to get my head round. Not till 5pm though so straight to bed for me. I have strange dreams about love bites on boobs...

Last funnies:
The Argentine guitarists, who can sing all Oasis song fluently, but speak no English?
The wrong bus to the wrong place.
Our mission at Pacha... it found us.
The taxi home listening to Guns and Roses, M's a rock chick.
Brendan's morning bar.
The man at the hostel who had a mirror obsession.
The Americans at Pacha, oh my god did we really speak with them?
Sebastian showing me the sights of seedy BA.
The man who doesn't eat or drink ever, and is still alive.
"Basically you're a cock" - Esther to Angie talking about Chinese horoscopes (I meant not a chicken).
Our plastic surgery - see photos!
Media Lunas again.
M's feet being nibbled by Mick at night.

I miss my wife! M where are you??! Oh yeah in my bed!

xxxxx