Esther's Adventure

Hello,

Vikki, Danny and myself head to Rio Gallegos on the bus with the intention of me heading down to Tierra del Fuego, and the guys heading up towards Puerto Madryn. We've been warned by the English boys that Rio Gallegos really is quite dire, and quite rightly so. The Footprint guide informs you that there are 'some interesting trees' around the main square. Hmm interesting. We arrive and its late in the afternoon, we hope we can all catch a connection so we don't have to stay in Rio G. Luckily for V and D there is a bus toward Puerta Madryn that evening. Unluckily for me the bus to Ushuaia is in the morning. It looks like I'm staying the night. We book tickets and head into town for some dinner. South American pizza (a pastry base drowning in cheese). On the way back to the bus station D and V drop me at a hostel. It's a very odd hostel, it's basically a persons house with dorms made out of the bedrooms upstairs. It reminds me of the O'Brians house in Sutton Courtenay where I grew up, there seem to be bunk beds in every available nook and cranny (the O'Brian's used to have bunk beds in their lounge). There are also attractive 70´s style throws on the beds in orange towelling with tassels round the edge, with flowery curtains and a shag pile carpet, it's straight out of the Good Life (Margot would be happy). It's already 10ish so I shower and head to bed. In the morning it's an early start and back to the bus station to catch an 18 hour bus to Ushuaia.

Tierra Del Fuego is vast and the sky is the biggest I´ve ever seen. I sit next to a nice french man in is late 60s heading to Antarctica! It sounds amazing and I decide to do it another time when I have more money try $4000!. We get to the Straights of Magellan and I reminisce about school, geography and Mr Pearce. I see some black and white dolphins swimming alongside the boat on the crossing. Its a long trip I realize how although I love to vastness of everything I'm not sure I could live in a place so remote. It really is the end of the earth.

I reach Ushuaia at about 3am and head to the Antarctica hostel. I get a bed in an 8 person dorm. Its the top bunk and the room is full of sleeping persons. I try to be as quiet as possible. Electric toothbrush will have to wait till morning. I spend the night on the most uncomfortable bed ever, its on a slant and whoever is below me starts snoring very loudly. I wake up feeling really groggy and wanting to murder the person below. When I finally get up, hes already moved out. Thank god. So I baggsy the bottom bunk from him. Ushuaia a pretty town on a slope overlooking the Beagle Channel, right at the end of Argentina. I'm exhausted after my trip and night so spend the day snoozing and reading my book.

The next day I decide that I want to head to Rio asap. Ive had this plan brewing for a week or so now. Ive decided to move to Rio for a month and stay with Thiago, whom I met there with M when we were in Rio in January. I'm going to see if I can do a Portuguese course and basically get to know Rio better. I cant stop thinking about it. I'm in love with Rio and am seriously contemplating moving there. So I decide book my bus to Punta Arenas early, change my flight, so that I can get Santiago and then Rio earlier. Booking the ticket takes three hours! Just as I'm about to get my turn with the travel agent, she goes to lunch!! Eventually I get to see her (I meet some cool people in the travel agents whilst waiting) and I book myself onto the early bus to Punta Arenas.

I spend the afternoon visiting sea lions, cormorants and penguins in the Beagle channel. I meet a 22 year old Mexican girl who's already pilot?! I decide I really need to visit Mexico too, it sounds great. Amazing sun set, cute penguins and smelly sea lions. We go out to a restaurant in the evening for some fuegan lamb. Delicious.

5am on a mini bus to Rio Turbio, all a blur and more vastness. I'm at the end of the world and really on my own. The bus is called Marianne but shes miles away in London and I miss her and everyone massively. The journey to Punta Arenas is silly as you have to go through Argentina, then Chile, then Argentina, then Chile. Every time getting off the bus and having your passport stamped. Punta Arenas is similar to Ushuaia and I head to a hostel recommended by Footprint, 'Hostel at the end of the world'. I book in and am shown to a large room with 4 very comfy looking beds with big eiderdowns. God I'm looking forward to bed. It's a really nice hostel and the people who run it are very accommodating. The next day I try to change my flight, but can't. I'm stuck in PA for four days!!! Bollocks. A very sweet American girl moves in called Jill. We hang out for the next fours days eating, sleeping, reading and watching tons of films on the hostel 40inch flat screen (i miss mine!)...Also I have a cold from trekking in the Torres.

Chilean School kids look like they're Japanese. Its spooky. They're really into Manga cartoons and everything Japanese. Their hair, clothes and they even look Oriental. Wish id gotten a photo. I meet up with Marianne's mums cousin John. He takes me for a delicious dinner to the smartest restaurant in PA. He's the father of lovely Angie and Maty in BA and tells me the fascinating story of how he managed to be living in South America and how he loves it. My heart strings are being pulled the whole while...Rio Rio Rio I'm thinking.
Finally after what seems and eternity at the end of the world, its the night before I fly toward Santiago. Although the landscapes are beautiful and space and clean air freely available, I'm glad to be leaving such a remote place. The romance of Chatwins 'In Patagonia' is in the back of my mind, but I realise how I crave life and people and colour and things!! Dare I say civilization?!

I get the the airport with a Spanish boy who shares my taxi. Once through check in and me taking my leatherman through the xray machine accidentally, I spot the Chilean President right in front of me! Chilean security is rather lax it seems. Finally I'm on the fight to Santiago. We fly up over Chile and along the geographical wall the Andes create separating Chile from the rest of the Continent. I see lakes, huge glaciers and mountains. We circle Santiago before we land and you can see the smog and pollution from the city as we do, it looks massive and dirty. Then its into a cab and straight to Barrio Brazil to see Jess. I met Jess with M in Trancoso two months ago. I arrive at her halls of residence, and It so nice to see her. She's very kindly let me stay in her hall of residence room. After a cup of Tescos Finest builders tea, we go out for afternoon ice cream (mmm), and a wander round a really nice arty area of Santiago. Then some beers and a dinner at a great restaurant. We collapse into Jess' bed around 2am rather worse for wear, but having had a really good laugh. I luv Jess and i look forward to seeing her again in June before I fly to Auckland. Jess has a class in the morning so has to leave early. She makes me yummy porridge with almonds and raisins. I pack up my stuff again and head to the airport. Flying is such a luxury on this trip. I feel very special and very lucky! I'm on my flight to Rio and to see Thiago...I cant wait...

The gringo beards in Patagonia, Mr Twit??
Smokey Antarctica Hostel, I hate smoking
The lost knickers
The Antarctica workers with smelly breath (dire)
The PA cemetery, spooky but beautiful
American Gangster (brilliant)
'Cumming' tube station in Santiago
Rio here I come!

xxxxx